Welcome to the Rattery!
Feel free to browse around the website for information, upcoming litters, and available rats for adoption.
Registered breeder listed with AFRMA.
This Rattery was founded due to my love of pet rats. I primarily focus on Fawns, but do work with other varieties. I have owned rats for over 20 years, and have begun the journey of breeding. I wanted to breed rats because there aren't enough friendly, healthy, rats in the world.
The rats produced by me are bred for temperament, health, and genetics. With that being said, I only breed from rats who have displayed no temperament issues, no chronic health issues, and overall great body condition.
I adopt out only to approved adopters, and I try my best to make the entire process as smooth as possible for both parties. Whether you're a first time rat owner or a veteran owner, I feel there is always more to learn and improve on. I am always here to answer questions and give advice. So please feel free to reach out!
Last but certainly not least, all rats adopted from me have a take back guarantee. This means, if for ANY reason you cannot keep your rats, they must come back to me and only me. I have this in place to ensure no rats end up in bad hands and so that way my adopters feel comfortable knowing their babies will have a safe haven if needed. There are far too many rats in this world dumped in shelters or rehomed due to unforeseeable situations.
Thank you for reading!
Swipe to the right 👉
What makes breeding, ethical?
The term "ethical" gets floated around alot, but what actually makes a breeder ethical? Well, that can be many things! Here's what being an ethical breeder means to me:
1. Breeding isn't for personal or financial gain. Animals are living, sentient, beings. With that being said, it is important to me that any ethical breeder believes this! Animals are not a dollar sign. I like to think of it as I would with people. It is extremely draining on our bodies to make one baby, let alone multiple. It is the same for animals. We all have the ability to procreate, however that doesn't mean we should at every opportunity.
2. Mothers are of an appropriate age to become pregnant. An appropriate age for pregnancy to me is summed up in multiple factors. I look at mental maturity, body condition, and age (in months as we are talking about rats). I believe some does (female rats) are just not mentally mature to have a litter, despite being in the target age range. This is displayed to me with overall kitten behavior. Does who seem to still be in the kitten(baby rat) mentality may not be ready to take on the burden of raising a litter. Body condition is how physically well off the doe is. I look at bone structure, muscle tone, and body fat. A robust doe will have a better pregnancy and birth vs a petite frail doe. Age is almost as important as the other two as it is linked. Most does are in the mental maturity and body condition I prefer between age 6 months to 8 months. This can very between individuals.
3. Paced breeding vs forced breeding. Now this is a controversial topic and each breeder approaches this differently. I find giving my does an option to court with the buck(male rats) and allow her to seek him out gives both rats a much less stressful breeding experience. I provide a larger cage with a hide only big enough for the doe, so she can feel secure if she is not ready for the buck. The doe will tease and play until she is ready for copulation. It's very romantic in a sense!
4. I do not over breed. I believe a doe should only be bred once in her life. Being pregnant and giving birth is draining on their bodies, and it can lead to a shorter life if continously bred.
5. Picking temperament. I do not breed rats who display undesirable temperament. This can be skittishness, aggressive tendencies, insecurity, or aggression linked to hormones. Hormonal aggression is primarily seen in bucks, but can also be present in does.
6. Picking healthier rats. Rats can be notorious for having a wide variety of health problems. It is important to me that my breeding rats do not have chronic health problems. For example, a rat who has had to be treated for illness multiple times in their beginning months of life. This helps make sure their weaker immune systems do not get genetically passed on to their offspring.
7. I am against culling. This is a term used often. It can be confusing as the uses for it vary. Hard culling is when a breeder chooses to euthanize a rat that cannot be used for breeding. Soft culling is when a breeder will neuter/spay OR rehome a rat that cannot be used for breeding. I do not practice this as I find it goes against my own set of morals. My rats are my responsibility and whether or not I want to breed them, they will remain with me.
8. Living conditions. My rats live in the largest cages I can reasonably fit in my home. I provide enrichment, proper food, and a clean environment for them.
9. Veterinarian care. All pets may get sick at one point or another, and some pets need assistance passing over the rainbow bridge. I make sure I have a Veterinarian who can treat my animals if I need treatment. I also ensure no rat suffers from an illness that cannot be treated.
These are just some of my practices but I hope this gives you an idea of what I stand by in regards to ethics.
Available and Upcoming Litters
Swipe for how the adoption process works!
Athos x Bubbles
Upcoming pairing! Athos- standard coat, fawn, dumbo to Bubbles- standard coat, fawn, dumbo.
I will be pairing at the end of January, and should be expecting their litter due at the end of February.
Also check IG and FB for updates.
For adoption application, click the adoption button below.
How it works:
PLEASE READ BEFORE FILLING OUT AN APPLICATION! FOLLOW UP IS REQUIRED ONCE YOU'VE APPLIED.
My adoptions work a bit differently than other ratteries.
•Once kittens are born, I will make an announcement allowing adopters to be updated on their arrival.
•At around 5 1/2 to 6 weeks of age I will begin temperament testing.
•At 7 weeks I typically decided who my hold back(s) will be. This is so I can continue lines.
•At 7 1/2 to 8 weeks old the kittens will be available for reservations/adoptions.
•Adoption applications need to be submitted before the 8 week mark to ensure you have first dibs on reservations/adoptions.
•It's EXTREMELY important you communicate with me and inform me of your adoption application status BEFORE asking for rats. This is so I can establish relationships with my adopters and help pick the right rats for their households.
•I DO NOT adopt out any kittens before 8 weeks old. However, adopters who have been on my waitlist for the longest take priority over newer inquiries.
❗ At this time I am not selling any breeding animals. Pet homes only. ❗
Base adoption fee is $30. It is rare rats will be priced higher from my rattery. It will be stated underneath their listing if so.
Adoption fee is due upon pick up.
I do not require a deposit to reserve rats once they are available.
Once a pick up date is made, it is expected that the rats will be picked up on that day. If things come up I need to be informed. I will hold rats within reason if a pick up day needs to be changed. If I do not hear from an adopter for 3 days past the day pick up was scheduled, the reservation is void and the rats will be back up for adoption.
Please feel free to message me if you'd like a more in depth explanation or have any questions about my process! Thanks for reading!
Here are some things I think every adopter should know when picking a breeder!
GREEN FLAGS ✅:
• Open & honest about breeding practices.
• Ability to answer all questions without defensiveness or dismissive behavior.
• Willing to show pictures/videos of their animals when asked.
• Animals appear healthy and body condition looks good!
• Animals are appropriate ages when bred.
• Adoption fees are clear and stated.
• Good Reviews(while not always a for sure indicator, can definitely be a good sign when factoring other details).
RED FLAGS 🚫❌:
• Lots of Animals for adoption all the time.
• Inability to provide photos/videos of Animals when requested.
• Misleading or confusing breeding policies.
• Hypocritical adoption requirements. (You must have A B and C in order to adopt, but the breeder does not have A B or C).
• Asking for payment without proof of Animals being born/available (please do not fall for this scam!)
• Animals are seemingly being bred very very young.
• Adoption fee increase due to varying colors/coats. (This has always been a red flag for me)
• Negative reviews(while you cannot please everyone, pay attention to valid points and/or negative experiences).
Rats are social creatures 💜
3 is better than 1
Rats are very similar to humans in the respect they need companionship! Rats of all ages need same age, same sex, company. It is important to their mental health and overall happiness.
Rolling groups: this is a term used to describe a mischief(group of rats) that has Rats of varying ages. Many rat owners end up with rolling groups. This is to prevent any rat from ever being alone!
Three is better than one: I always advocate for three or more Rats in a mischief. The reason for this is due to many things. I will break it down for you!
Rat Hierarchies: Rats have a very complex social system and it involves a dominant(alpha) rat and so on down the totem pole. Rats need this hierarchy to fulfill their natural behaviors as colony animals. When you have just a pair of rats, it makes it difficult to establish a healthy hierarchy, as one rat is often always the bottom rat and never has a break from the dominant rat.
Three or more: Three is a good starting point for any mischief, it allows for a healthier hierarchy. There is more than one other rat, so the chain of command is more evenly distributed. This also prevents any rat from being alone should one pass away!
Same age company: rats like to have at least one companion their own age. As rats age and mature it is important they have a companion their age. Imagine being 21 and only having a friend that was 16! It is the same for your rats.
Due to the reasons stated above, I only adopt out in pairs or more. Even if you have 12 rats at home, I will only adopt if a pair goes. Kittens especially need that friend who is their age for mental development and social development. Also so they have someone to play with, as our older rats tend to be on the nap and snack schedule!
I hope this information is helpful to new rat owners or potential new rat owners who were unsure how many a mischief should have. 💜
Click the link below to fill out the waitlist form! 👇👇❗❗
Quarantine Dos and Donts
• isolate new rats from existing rats
• provide a separate air space from existing rats
• wait at minimum 14 days before introducing new rats to existing rats
• wash hands before and after handling new rats
• use precautions when handling new rats
• place new rats in the same space as existing rats
• rush and start intros under 14 days
• handle new rats and then immediately handle existing rats without cleaning your hands/changing clothes
• wash new rats items with existing rats items
• cross contaminate items
• allow new rats to "see" existing rats by holding near cage (even if for a few moments as airborne virus are highly contagious)
A bit about my mix!
When it comes to diet, I spent alot of time researching what my rats would benefit from the most. There are many options out there, but I eventually settled on making my own mix. With that said, I do follow the guidelines set by the Shunamite Diet.
I add beneficial ingredients as well as make sure the mix is balanced so my rats nutritional needs are met.
There is some controversy about mixes vs lab blocks, such as mixes promote selective eating. I personally haven't seen this behavior as my rats have been eating my mix their entire lives. Not only is it essential for their overall health, but a mix provides extra enrichment!
I do sell my mix to adopters per request along with providing a sample bag with adoption.
It is ultimately up to you what you want to feed your rats, but in my experience my rats are overall healthier due to eating this way. 💜
Fun fact: baby rats are also called kittens!
Each kitten is sent home with a kitten pack, which is included in their adoption fee! The kitten pack includes: 1 toy or hammock, a small bag of smelly bedding(so they have a familiar smell in their new home), a sample bag of the rat mix (which they have been fed their whole lives), a birth certificate, and a treat item to use for bonding!
I find it extremely essential for the kittens to have these items when leaving the rattery, minus the birth certificate 😉. Familiar smells, yummy treats, their normal food, and a toy or hammock can make a world of difference! The world is a scary place for a baby!