What should a rabbits diet includ?
Your rabbits diet should include pellets, a variety of veggies, and lots of hay!

Hay should be 75-80% of their diet. Hay provides fiber, calories, stimulates gut motility, and controls cecal fermentation. Hay is extremely important to keep your rabbit healthy. I recommend using the Oxbow brand for hay. You can get hay at the pet store, binkybunny.com, smallpetselect.com, and houserabbitssocitey.com.
There are many different types of hay and any bunny under the age of 7 months should have alfalfa hay. Any age above 7 months can have any other type of hay.
 
High Fiber Pellets are 20% of their diet. They provide calories, protein, vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids. Pellets should be limited. Pellets lack the benefits of hay and veggies and should not be fed in isolation. Bunnies that are 3 to 4 weeks can have nibbles of alfalfa and alfalfa pellets. Bunnies that are 4 to 7 weeks should have access to alfalfa and alfalfa pellets. Bunnies that are 7 weeks to 7 months should have unlimited alfalfa pellets as well as unlimited alfalfa hay. Once they are 7 months start to switch to Timothy pellets and Timothy hay.
 
5-15% of diet should be leafy greens. Greens provide vitamins, minerals, and water. There should be at least three different leafy greens in your bunnies salad as well as a variety. At 12 weeks you can start to introduce vegetables. Make sure they are given only one at a time, quantities under 1/2 oz. Also supervise your rabbit after any new veggie. At 7 months to a year old, increase daily vegetables gradually. Make sure your rabbit can tolerate them. Rabbits that are 1-5 years old have a minimum of 2 cups chopped vegetables per 6 lbs. body weight. Again always introduce vegetables and greens slowly to make sure your rabbit can tolerate them.
 
Treats should be 0-5% of their diet. Fruits, carrots, and anything beyond that is a “treat.” Avoid sugary treats and also avoid over feeding treats. Too many treats discourage the consumption of healthier foods. A diet high in sugars causes an overgrowth of harmful bacteria resulting in painful gas or GI Stasis.

• Alfalfa sprouts
• Anise Hyssop
• Apple twigs, leaves, and fruit, but not the seeds!
• Arugula
• Asparagus
• Banana
• Basil 
• Beet Greens
• Bell Pepper, Sweet Green
• Bell Pepper, Sweet Red
• Blackberry fruit, stems, leaves
• Blueberry fruit
• Bok Choy 
• Borage
• Calendula
• Carrots
• Carrot roots
• Carrot tops (II)
• Catnip/catmint
• Celery
• Chamomile
• Chicory 
• Cilantro/Coriander 
• Clover
• Collard greens
• Comfrey
• Cranberry
• Cucumber peels
• Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)
• Daylily flowers
• Dianthus
• Dill 
• Eggplant
•Endive
• English Daisy
• Escarole 
• Fennel 
• Frisee Lettuce 
• Green peppers
• Grape fruit, leaves, and vines
• Honeysuckle
• Jasmine
• Jerusalem Artichoke
• Kale 
• Kolrabi
• Lemon balm
• Lemon grass
• Lettuce: Romaine, Red or Green leaf (no iceberg or light colored leaf)
• Lilac
• Lovage
• Mango
• Marigold
• Marjoram
• Melon
• Mint Varieties 
• Mustard greens
• Nasturtium
• Okra
• Orange (no peel)
• Oregano
• Pansy
• Papaya
• Parsley
• Parsnip
• Peach
• Pear
• Peas, snow (no dried or sweet peas)
• Peppermint leaves
• Pineapple
• Purslane
• Radicchio 
• Radish tops
• Radish
• Raspberry leaves 
• Rose
• Rosemary
• Sage/salvia
• Spinach
• Sprouts
• Squash fruit and flowers
• Strawberry
• Sweet woodruff
• Swiss chard
• Tarragon, french
• Thyme
• Turnip Greens 
• Viola
• Violet
• Watercress 
• Wheat Grass 
• Willow

AVOID
Avocado
Bamboo shoots
Beans, dried
Beans, raw: lima, kidney, soy
Bracken Fern
Cassava
Coffee beans and plant
Whole corn kernels (can get stuck in intestines)
Grains
Lettuce, Iceberg
Millet
Nuts
Onions
Peas, dried
Potatoes, including peels
Rhubarb
Sweet peas
Sweet Potatoes
Tea leaves
Whole seeds
Most house plants (toxic)
Chocolate
Refined sugars
Yogurt drops
Honey/Seed sticks

If you didn’t know, rabbits can actually be litter trained just like cats! Here are a few tips on how to do this.

First thing is to get a big enough litter box. Do NOT use the corner litter boxes you see at pet stores because these are way to small for your rabbit. Instead use a cat litter box, and make sure your rabbit can do a full 360° spin in their litter. Having a big enough litter box will also help when trying to litter train.

Once you have a big enough litter box, place it in the corner of their cage, room, etc. Bunnies like to go to corners to do their business so by putting it in the corner of the room, it will tell them to go “here”. Sometimes it will help to even have multiple litter boxes in different areas. You can go back down to one litter once they are litter trained though!

As rabbits eat, they poop. So by placing a hay rack above the litter, it will help contain their poop. You can also place their food bowl in the front corner of the litter as well! I also like to put hay in the litter box as well as having a hay rack.

As you probably have noticed, your rabbit might have had a few accidents already. If you see any loose poops, pick them up and put them in their litter. This will tell your rabbit that they should go “here” instead of on the floor. If your rabbit pees outside of the litter, take a small piece of paper towel and soak it up, then place it in their litter. Then make right away remove any smell of the pee and make the area neutral.
Most rabbits are being territorial when they do their business outside the litter. This is why you will need to remove any smell of pee right away. This tells them that this is not your space to go to the bathroom. I recommend using a half and half mixture of water and half vinegar to help remove any smell.

If your rabbit is still not using the litter, it is probably because they are not nurtured or spayed yet. Once they become fixed, it will help a LOT with litter training.

Make sure to be patient with this process and good luck!